The whole intent of our Project Engine Build was to document the building of our Florida Asphalt Modified engine for Dick Anderson’s new Modified he will be racing around the Southeast. The timing of receiving parts prevented us from starting the new build until more recently, so we documented an entire engine build using other motors.
That worked because we were able to show that with just a few specialized tools, you yourself could order parts that are pre-balanced and matched up to one another and assemble those parts in your garage or team shop.
With every engine build, there are critical steps that must be taken to ensure a successful build and one that survives. We noted that in this day and age of modern CNC machining and ultra-close tolerances and manufacturing techniques, the parts you will receive will be as good or better than what we used to use after paying a machine shop to balance the parts and correct basic misalignments.
Now we have all of our parts and are ready to go. Something to note is that this motor is not one that is intended to be like what we described in our previous installments. This is a Florida rules Modified and for those who know, know that these motors are, and have always been, a special child. For one thing, the rules allow more modifications than are allowed in other more stock classes.
This makes this class more attractive, I think, for the racer because they can be more creative, which enhances the desirability of any class. When you allow the racer to be creative in the chassis design, setup, and engine department, we find those to be the most popular classes in short track racing and ones where the numbers of participants is high.
Our motor uses 18-degree Brodix heads, a COMP Cams roller cam assembly, custom Mahle pistons, and a unique crank and rod combination to create a short stroke. There are also some other enhancements that we won’t go into here—the guys won’t let us.
I’ve been around Florida Mod racing for some time through helping local friends set up their cars, I’ve always known about the “creative” aspect of the engines in this class and anyone who is not aware of the work that goes into being creative in this class has had their head in the sand.
That being said, we will go through the parts of this build that differ from our previous build. Like I said, these parts will have to be made to fit and work with one another. The Koury shop has all the right tools to accomplish that. In order for you to do this build, or one similar to it, would require you enlisting the services of a good machinist and knowing what to modify and why.
The block prep is just like what we have previously described. The main journals for the crank are inspected and polished, the crank is balanced (all cranks must be checked for balance) and the bearings are installed and checked for dimension. Leave the balancing process to a professional because the counterweight amount and positioning is specific to the rods and pistons used in the build.
There is a little mixing and matching of bearing halves that must be done to ensure proper clearance between the bearings and the crank. The same goes for the rod bearing clearances and piston assembly weight matching.
Once we know the clearances are correct and the parts are balanced for weight, we need to check the Brodix head. First we check the head volume. For our motor, we needed to have a volume of 64 cc. It was larger than that and the heads needed to be milled down to that volume. Again, a good machine shop could do this for you.
Once the volume is correct for your application, you need to check the piston to head clearances. For this motor, the pistons were ones that fit the 18-degree head, but were not intended to match perfectly and had to be relieved as to the spark plug position and valve clearances. Again, this was done with a Bridgeport milling machine that takes a lot of talent and experience to operate successfully. Byron Koury Jr. has all of that.
We also must do the Play-Doh valve clearance check and might need to further cut and relieve the pistons to allow proper gap from the face of the valves to the top of the piston and from the edge of the valve to the edge of the valve relief in the piston. Further milling might need to be done in this area.
Now that the pistons fit, we weigh the piston assemblies and match them to one another. This process had to wait until the pistons were cut to fit because that process might have changed the weights differently for each piston. The lightest piston assembly will be noted and the other heavier pistons will be reduced in weight to match that lightest one.
The rest of the assembly is standard procedure for torquing the crank, installing and degreeing the cam, sizing the rings, installing the pistons and rods, installing the heads, checking the valvetrain angles, and lashing the valves. Again, this is all standard assembly routine that we covered in the first two installments.
Our next step is to put the engine on the dyno and fine-tune the advance, carburetor, and other settings to find the best power. On the day of the dyno run, I observed the complete motor on the dyno stand. It was impressive. The Brodix heads with matching Brodix intake manifold fit perfectly and the COMP Cams valvetrain set was ready for action.
First we run the motor to make sure there are no leaks, and then run it for a break-in period at about approximately 2,500 rpm before the first dyno run. The engine is filled with specially formulated break-in oil poured into the amazing Dan Olson Racing Products 10-quart aluminum oil pan that Byron prefers. That same oil will stay in the motor until after the first race. Then it will be replaced and the oil filter analyzed. For now, we are anxious to see how much power we have.
The Koury dyno setup is straight up, meaning that all of the correct settings have been set for true atmospheric conditions and other factors. There are settings on dynos where you can trick the dyno and have it put out power numbers that are not real, not that any reputable engine builders would do such a thing.
The other features of this dyno are a temperature-controlled water circulating system, exhaust temperature sensors for each header, all of the usual sensors, including oil and water pressure, oil and water temperature, and a high output exhaust fan to vent heat and leaked exhaust gases out and away from the intake.
The engine is primed to bring up the oil pressure and circulate oil throughout the engine before final installation of the distributor. Then the plug wires and everything else is attached to the motor, the dyno systems are turned on, and the engine is started for the first time. We immediately checked the block for leaks and there were no serious problems.
The engine is run for a period of time to allow initial break-in and mating of the parts, shut down and then rechecked for leaks or other obvious problems. Then the real dyno work begins. After this initial break-in run, the Oberg filter is opened and checked. Everything looked OK and we proceeded to the next stage.
After the initial pulls, I looked over the torque and horsepower numbers and was very impressed. I won’t give out actual numbers, Byron never does, but the power was very good and the curves very flat, meaning that this motor will pull well throughout the acceleration rpm range. For this type of motor, of which the Kourys have built plenty, these were among the best they have seen for power and consistency.
For example, the power at 5,500 rpm was just 10 hp below what was recorded at 6,200 rpm, and at 6,800 rpm where the curve should be falling off significantly, the power was only about 8 hp below maximum. From 5,800 rpm through to 6,600 rpm, the power never deviated more than 5 or 6 hp. That is all of the way down the straightaway.
I’ve seen plenty of power curve charts and out of all of those, I’ve never seen such a flat curve before, especially with very good power numbers. This kind of consistency is what teams search for. Somehow, the guys at Koury have found the right combination of build parts and processes to achieve this.
The timing started out at 32 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) and that is the usual starting point for heads with dome pistons. David Thorne sat at the dyno controls and Byron Sr. advanced the timing 1 degree at a time until maximum power was recorded at 35 degrees BTDC.
The next step is to tune the carburetor supplied by Dick Anderson to find the correct fuel to air mixture that will again provide more efficient combustion and more power while not being too lean for the sake of engine life. We all agreed that this carb was probably very close to the right jetting, having been raced before on similar motors, but this is all part of the fine-tuning.
In between the final dyno runs, the valve clearance was checked and no changes were needed. The crew did have to mess with the valve covers supplied by Anderson and they eventually modified them to their own design of breather tube, which eliminated the oil leakage they had seen at the upper ranges of rpm.
Anderson will be coming over and picking up the motor, installing it in the Circle Track Modified over the next week or so, and then going testing. We’ll be there offering a short review of how it all went. Then it’s on to full-time racing with Anderson behind the wheel of his personally prepared and set up Florida Modified. Stay tuned for the results.