There are a few reasons why you might want to remove the spare tirewell from the trunk floor of your vehicle—clearance for a fuel tank or exhaust, improved access to a rearend, the fact you don’t carry a spare or it’s too wide for the well, or even so a polished or detailed IRS can be seen—but the number one reason has to be because it has rusted out. Whatever your reason, its removal is a simple job, requiring little more than a spot weld removal drill, a wire brush, and a MIG welder, plus some way to trim a sheet of steel to shape, whether it be a brake or tinsnips. A simple Saturday morning task, follow along as the spare tirewell on CPP’s project 1955 Revive is eliminated. One word of caution though, if you tackle such a job, be aware of where the fuel tank filler and especially the breather are located, as well as the tank itself. Welding on the trunk floor may require the removal of the tank first.
While this spare tirewell is in good shape, this is a common water trap, and therefore is rust prone. It’s not unusual to see the entire bottom of the well missing. The perimeter was cleaned with a wire brush to reveal the welds.
This bracket locates the spare tire-retaining strap. Its spot welds were drilled out along with those around the perimeter of the well.
With all welds separated, the well was removed from the trunk floor.
This simple, 18-gauge filler panel was cut to size and bent to shape at its forward edge, then checked for fit one final time.
The flange where the new panel will be welded was thoroughly cleaned prior to its installation.
Rather than drill and plug weld the filler panel, as it sits in a stepped flange, it was simply tack-welded around the edge.
The panel tack-welded in place. It was further welded in short sections between the tacks.
The edge was also welded on the underside in sections.
Prior to finishing, the welds were dressed with an air grinder.
Eastwood high solid seam sealer was used to seal the perimeter. Note the short sections of weld rather than just tacks. The sealer will prevent moisture and rust in the joint.
The underside was also sealed. Masking tape is used so that once the sealer is smoothed, rather than left as a bead, it will have a neat uniform edge.
The finished filler panel, with a neatly sealed joint, ready for final finishing.
